The Fes medina is, in a word, overwhelming. With more than 9,000 alleyways, no two of which are alike, it is the largest car-free urban area in the world and one of the best-preserved medieval cities anywhere on the planet. UNESCO declared it a World Heritage Site in 1981 (UNESCO – Medina of Fez) and a visit there is, without doubt, one of the most fascinating cultural experiences you can have anywhere in Morocco. But it is also intense, and approaching the medina with the right preparation makes the difference between a memorable experience and an overwhelming one.
What is and what is not the Fes medina
Founded in 789 AD, Fes el-Bali (the “Old Fes”) is the oldest of the city’s three sections and the heart of the medina. Inside its walls, the urban structure has changed remarkably little since the 14th century. There are no cars, no motorbikes (only handcarts and donkeys), no chain stores. The medina functions as a complete medieval city: artisan guilds organise themselves by craft and by streets, mosques and madrasas are the centres of religious and academic life, and the souks supply the everyday needs of the inhabitants. Approximately 150,000 people still live here.
What to see in the Fes medina
The Chouara tannery
The Chouara tannery is the most photographed landmark in Fes and one of the most striking scenes in all of Morocco. The circular stone vats filled with natural dyes (each one a different colour, from white through ochre to deep brown), the workers moving between them in a process unchanged since the 11th century, and the surrounding jumble of leather workshops create a visual composition of extraordinary complexity. The best viewing positions are from the balconies of the surrounding leather shops, who allow visitors free access in the hope that they will buy a bag or jacket afterwards. The best light is between 9am and 11am.
The Bou Inania Madrasa
This 14th-century theological school is one of the few religious buildings in Fes that non-Muslims can enter. The interior carved decoration in cedar wood and plaster is one of the finest examples of Marinid art surviving anywhere. The visit takes about 30 minutes and is, without doubt, worth it.
Al-Qarawiyyin University
Founded in 859 AD by Fatima al-Fihri, Al-Qarawiyyin is the oldest university in continuous operation in the world, predating Oxford by almost 400 years. Non-Muslims cannot enter the prayer hall, but you can peek through the doors to see the impressive interior with its 270 columns.
How to navigate the Fes medina without getting lost
The honest answer is: you will get lost, and that is part of the experience. The medina is structured as a complex maze of alleyways with no logical grid, and even Google Maps frequently fails to position you correctly because of the GPS interference between the dense walls. The best advice is to relax and accept that you will get a little disoriented. Some practical tips: hire a licensed guide for the first day (about 25-30 euros for a half-day, well invested), download an offline map of the medina before going, and remember that all the main streets eventually lead to one of the main gates (Bab Boujloud is the most accessible).
The best time to visit the Fes medina
Spring and autumn offer the most comfortable temperatures for walking. Summer is hot but the medina shadow protects from the worst sun. Winter is cold but the lack of crowds compensates. The best time of day is early morning (before 10am) when the light is soft, the alleys are still relatively empty, and the artisans are starting their work. Avoid Friday afternoon, when many shops close for prayer.
Where to eat and stay in the medina
Sleeping in a riad inside the medina is essential to experience the city properly. Riads are traditional houses converted into boutique hotels, with central patios, fountains, and rooftop terraces with views over the medina. Our tours that include Fes always use riads selected for their character and quality. For more information about Fes-based tours, see tours from Fes and our blog section. TripAdvisor Merzouga has additional restaurant and accommodation references.
